How do you know what pipe material I have without opening a wall?
Most of the time we can tell from the visible runs at the water heater, under-sink valves, and exposed bibs outside. Color and size are diagnostic: red/blue flexible = PEX, cream rigid = CPVC, copper-color metal = copper, white rigid = PVC (drain only), gray flex (acetal fittings) = polybutylene, threaded galvanized-gray = galvanized. We verify in-wall via the smallest cut needed.
What is "polybutylene" and why does everyone freak out about it?
Polybutylene was a flexible plastic supply pipe used heavily in Florida from 1978–1995. It chemically reacts with chlorinated water and gets brittle. A 1995 class-action (Cox v. Shell, $1B settlement) confirmed systematic failure. Estimated 250,000 Florida homes still have it. Insurance carriers often refuse new policies on PB homes. Spot-repair is throwing money at a system that will keep failing.
Should I just replace my whole copper system with PEX?
Sometimes yes, sometimes no. A 25+ year-old Type M copper with 2 pinholes in the past year — yes, repipe. A 15 year-old Type L copper with one isolated pinhole at a stagnation leg — surgical repair, you've got 15–25 more good years. We walk you through both numbers (cost of spot repair vs cost of repipe) so you can decide on data.
What's "ProPress" and why does it matter?
ProPress is a hydraulic copper-press-fit system. Instead of using a torch to sweat-solder copper joints (open-flame work near drywall, insulation, and old wood framing), the tool presses a special fitting onto the pipe with a calibrated jaw. No flame, no fire-watch, no smell of flux. Same pressure rating and life as a soldered joint. We bring it on every copper job.
Will insurance cover the repair?
Florida HO-3 typically covers the resulting water damage (drywall, flooring, contents) but excludes the failed pipe itself. Two exceptions: (a) "sudden & accidental" supply-line bursts are usually covered including the pipe, (b) some carriers offer a buried/concealed-pipe rider. Our paperwork is formatted for adjuster review on first submission.
How big is the wall opening for a typical repair?
Goal is the smallest cut that lets us work cleanly. For a supply-line pinhole in copper or CPVC: usually a 6"x12" rectangle on the wall surface. We patch with hot mud, tape, and 2 coats of finish ready for paint. The patch is included in the quote unless you've specified you'll handle drywall separately.
How long does a typical pipe repair take?
Under-sink supply riser swap: 30–60 min. Single in-wall pinhole repair: 1.5–3 hours including drywall patch. Shower-valve replacement: 3–5 hours. Full PEX repipe of a 2,000 sq ft home: 3–5 days with permits and inspection.
Can a single fitting that keeps leaking actually fail the system?
Yes. A leaking fitting is rarely just that fitting — it's usually a sign the soldering work on adjacent joints was rushed, or the pipe diameter is wrong for the flow rate, or the original installer over-torqued threads. We inspect the surrounding 4–6 feet on every repair to catch the second failure before it floods you.
What if you cut the wrong pipe?
We label, photograph, and pressure-test before cutting on every job. If something we didn't intend to expose gets damaged (the gas line that the previous installer ran through the wall cavity, for example), our liability insurance covers the repair. In 15 years we've had this happen twice — both fully resolved without homeowner cost.
What's the warranty on a pipe repair?
5 years on the workmanship of any surgical pipe repair (copper press, PEX expansion, CPVC reglue). 10 years on full PEX-A repipes. We document the warranty on every invoice and we honor it if a repair fails — we come back at no charge to redo it.