"I called about what I thought was a slab leak. Turned out to be an HVAC condensate line clogged in the attic and a dishwasher supply line dripping behind the cabinet. They diagnosed both, fixed the dishwasher line, gave me an HVAC tech referral, and only charged for the work they actually did."
Twelve sources where water leaks on a Florida property
If it carries, holds, or drains water, it can fail. We repair every category. No "we don't do that" handoff to another contractor.
Is your leak on the supply side or the drain side?
Half the leaks we diagnose turn out to be on the side homeowners didn't expect. The repair approach is completely different — so the first thing we figure out is which one.
Supply-side leak Pressurized
Your supply system delivers pressurized clean water to fixtures. Leaks are continuous, often invisible, and accumulate. Even a pinhole pushes 50–80 gallons per day.
- Leak runs even when no water is being used
- Water meter spins with all fixtures off
- Pressure drop at fixtures when leak is severe
- Clean water — no smell, no discoloration
- Water bill spike (most reliable indicator)
- Detection: acoustic disc + thermal + pressure isolation
- Repair: cut, splice with copper press or PEX expansion fitting
Drain-side leak Gravity-flow
Your drain system carries waste water away by gravity. Leaks only happen during use (running a sink, flushing). Water has odor, may be discolored, and pressure isn't involved.
- Leak only appears during/after fixture use
- Water meter does not spin with fixtures off
- Often comes with sewage smell or staining
- Water bill is normal (drain water doesn't add to bill)
- Most common at trap arms, joint connections, slab penetrations
- Detection: visual + dye test + camera inspection
- Repair: re-seal joint, replace trap arm, or section replacement
Eight fixture-specific repairs with typical timelines
The everyday plumbing repairs that fall under "water leak" but don't make it into the major-event categories.
Pool, spa, and irrigation — the seasonal Florida specialty
Florida has more residential pools per capita than any state. Combined with year-round irrigation, exterior plumbing leaks make up roughly 25% of our calls.
Pool & spa plumbing
A pool losing more than 1/4 inch per day (in non-summer months) is leaking — not evaporating. Distinguishing a shell leak from a plumbing leak is a critical first step before anyone tears up your deck.
- Bucket test to rule out evaporation (Florida summer: 0.25"/day normal)
- Pressure-test suction, return, and equalizer lines independently
- Dye test at the skimmer, return jets, and pool light niche
- Acoustic listening on the equipment pad — pump, filter, heater connections
- Repair: section replacement on PVC plumbing, ProPress on copper
Irrigation system
Sub-surface irrigation lines, valves, and heads. A leaking zone runs all night during an irrigation cycle and shows up only as a higher water bill. Difficult to find without zone isolation.
- Zone-by-zone pressure isolation to identify the leaking zone
- Walk the heads in the suspected zone — most leaks are at the head connection
- Pipe locator on sub-surface laterals if no surface signs
- Backflow preventer assembly inspection (annual requirement in some FL counties)
- Repair: poly-pipe coupling, head replacement, valve diaphragm swap
Is it really a leak — or is it HVAC condensate?
Florida humidity means your AC produces 5–20 gallons of condensate water per day. If the drain pan overflows or the condensate line clogs, that water shows up the same way a supply leak does: ceiling stain, attic moisture, drywall damage. We solve this diagnostic confusion first — saves you from paying to "fix" a plumbing leak that doesn't exist.
Three tests to distinguish supply leak from HVAC condensate
Supply leak indicators
- Water meter spins with everything off
- Wet spot persists 24/7 — not just during AC cycles
- Water bill has spiked significantly
- Moisture meter reads consistent saturation
- No correlation with AC runtime
HVAC condensate indicators
- Water meter does not spin
- Wet spot appears mid-day, dry overnight when AC cycles off
- Water bill is normal
- Drain pan visibly has standing water
- Strong correlation with AC runtime + humidity
Our policy: If we determine the issue is HVAC condensate, not plumbing, we tell you, recommend an HVAC tech, and charge only the $95 diagnostic visit fee. We don't manufacture work that isn't there.
The 14-point property leak audit we run on every visit
While we're on-site for one leak, we check the rest. Most homeowners get one or two free "you should watch this" callouts on the way out the door.
Water leak repair in every Florida city
Tap your city for local notes, response window, and pricing.
Southeast Florida 100 cities
Highest call volume. Pool, spa, and slab repairs lead. Same-day metro response.
+507 more Florida cities covered. See the slab leak hub for full regional breakdown. Contact us for your specific city.
Why one company for every leak beats three contractors playing tag
A pool leak isn't a plumbing leak isn't an HVAC condensate problem — until it is. Coordination between specialty contractors costs you weeks and adds finger-pointing to your insurance claim.
One diagnosis, one repair, one invoice
The leak you called us about may not be the leak that's actually causing your problem. We diagnose the full property, identify the real source, and quote everything in one document. No "you need to call someone else for that."
One adjuster-ready packet
Multiple-contractor claims confuse adjusters and slow approval. We consolidate the diagnosis, cause-of-loss, and repair documentation into a single submission that gets processed faster.
We say no when it isn't our job
HVAC condensate leak? Roof flashing migration? Septic backup? We tell you and recommend the right specialty contractor — and only charge the diagnostic visit. We don't manufacture work that isn't there.
Florida homeowners on the one-contractor experience
"Pool was losing 2 inches overnight, irrigation zone was wet, and the kitchen disposal was leaking. Three problems, one truck, one afternoon. The 14-point audit they ran on the way out caught a washing machine hose I had no idea was a ticking time bomb."
"Insurance adjuster originally denied my claim because the original plumber's paperwork was a one-line invoice. These guys re-documented everything with cause-of-loss, photos, and moisture readings. Claim re-opened and approved the next week."
Common questions about whole-property repair
Nine direct answers. Call (833) 435-3230 for anything else.
How do I know which kind of leak I have?
If your water meter is spinning with everything turned off, it's a supply-side leak. If you only see water during or after using a fixture, it's a drain-side leak. If the wet spot correlates with AC runtime and the meter is calm, it's likely HVAC condensate. We do all three tests on the first visit so we don't waste your time on the wrong diagnosis.
Do you fix pool leaks?
Yes — pool plumbing (return lines, suction lines, equipment-pad fittings, pool light niches, equalizer lines). We do not resurface pool shells or repair structural pool issues — those go to a pool builder. The diagnostic comes first: bucket test rules out evaporation, then pressure isolation rules in/out plumbing as the source.
What about irrigation leaks?
Yes. Zone isolation pressure testing identifies which zone leaks; pipe locator finds sub-surface laterals; head replacement and valve work are routine. Florida-specific note: many counties require annual backflow preventer testing — we coordinate that as part of the service.
Will you fix something behind a wall I can't see?
Yes. Our detection process narrows the leak to a 6-inch radius before any drywall opens. The wall opening is usually 6"x12" — and we patch it before we leave (drywall hot mud, tape, finish ready for paint). The patch is included in the quote unless you specify you'll handle drywall.
What if the leak is actually multiple leaks?
Common in older Florida homes — a primary leak makes everyone aware of the plumbing, then a secondary leak shows up on the same visit. We quote each separately and let you decide which to fix today vs schedule for later. No bundling pressure.
How does the diagnostic-credits-to-repair pricing work?
We charge a flat diagnostic fee ($95–$295 depending on scope) to come out and find the leak. If you authorize the repair with us, that fee comes off your repair invoice. If you choose to use a different contractor for the repair, you've still received a written diagnostic report you can hand to them. You never pay twice for finding the same problem.
Do you carry parts to fix common fixture leaks on the first visit?
Yes for everything common: standard toilet wax seals, fill valves, supply lines (copper, PEX, braided), angle stops, P-traps, garbage disposal seals, washing machine hoses, dishwasher supply lines, water heater T&P valves and fittings. Specialty parts (specific cartridge brand for an obscure shower valve) may need a quick run to the supply house.
Will insurance cover this work?
Depends on the leak. Sudden & accidental supply-line bursts: usually covered including some pipe replacement. Wear-and-tear gradual leaks: usually only the resulting water damage is covered, not the pipe. Outdoor irrigation and pool plumbing: usually excluded entirely. We document every job for adjuster review — you decide what to file.
What's the warranty on water leak repair?
5 years workmanship on supply, drain, and fixture repairs (the parts we install). 1 year on cartridges and consumables. Up to 10 years on full PEX-A repipes. Manufacturer warranties on individual components (water heater, smart sensors) carry their own terms.
One call. One diagnosis. One repair. One invoice.
Supply, drain, fixture, irrigation, pool, appliance. Detection-first. Flat-rate quote. 14-point property audit included on every visit.